Kayaking Three Sisters Swamp on the Black River

It’s not often you get to see the oldest cypress trees in the world. Therefore, a kayaking trip through the Three Sisters Swamp of the Black River in North Carolina should be on every nature lover’s bucket list. Particularly, if you like cypress trees and remote river adventures.

I did the Three Sisters Swamp kayak trip in April with Mahanaim Adventures based in Wilmington, North Carolina. Don and Diane Harty run this family-owned kayak outfitting business. Don and his son Joseph do tours on the waterways of southeast North Carolina.

The Three Sisters Swamp tour is Mahanaim Adventures’ second most popular after the Shark Island kayak trip where participants can collect fossilized shark teeth. They also do day trips to Masonboro Island, a remote barrier island that can only be reached by private boat.

Related post -> 25 Best Kayaking Day Trips in the US

Where is the Three Sisters Swamp of the Black River?

The Black River in North Carolina runs about 50 miles from near Clinton, NC before it empties in the Cape Fear River near Wilmington. The Three Sisters Swamp is 1.5 miles of cypress-laden waterway off the main stem of the Black River. The area has the oldest trees in eastern North America and the 5th oldest species of trees on Earth. The swamp can only be reached by paddle craft.

What is a blackwater river?

Blackwater rivers are found throughout the southeastern United States. Blackwater rivers originate in the highlands and drain the coastal plains into the Atlantic. The water looks black but upon closer examination, it is the color of well-steeped tea. The coloring comes from tannins leached from the fallen leaves of oaks and pines along the river.

Blackwater rivers often are the longest free-floating rivers in the southern United States. They are prone to spring flooding due to a lack of dams and other impediments. Fortunately, the wide floodplains spread the floodwater through the riverside trees.

As summer approaches, the blackwater river levels go down, leaving golden sandbars at river turns perfect for taking a break or camping.

My experiences on black water rivers

I’ve spent over 25 years canoeing and kayaking the blackwater rivers of the southeastern states. Names like the Edisto, Lumber, Little Peedee, Ohoopee, Santee, Satilla, and Swanee remind me of the many canoe camping trips I’ve led on these rivers and others. Each March I would bring a group of college students down south for a week on one of these rivers for their spring break. We would paddle the high water swollen rivers amid a wilderness remoteness not often found on the east coast. We would wind through cypress and swamp oak forests without seeing anyone for days. Finding a dry piece of land to camp was a daily challenge.

My favorite part of these paddling trips was venturing out into the overflowing floodplains to paddle through the trees. Blackwater rivers are incredibly sinuous, folding back on themselves around turns. I was always on the lookout for a path through the floodplain forest to explore and eventually drop us back onto the main channel of the river a few turns later. These cut-throughs were a source of exciting adventure (and good canoeing skills) as we navigated through uncharted swamps to find the main current again.

Given my experience, there is little wonder why I was so excited about the Three Sisters Swamp tour. To pick your way by boat through a floodplain swamp teeming with wildlife and huge cypress trees is special for any outdoor enthusiast.

Kayaking Trip to the Three Sisters Swamp

Three Sisters Swamp is named after three ancient trees that are genetically related. The biggest one of these bald cypress trees is Methuselah, and its two sisters tower in the water nearby. The three related trees were once thought to be the oldest in the swamp. However, in 2018 older trees were found through tree coring, including one that is 2624 years old. Like naming a newborn cat, “Kitty”, the ancient cypress tree has been dubbed “2624”. The name sticks even as the being grows older.

The tree is nothing to write home about in appearance. It’s not as immense as many of its neighbors. Nor is it very tall, as the crown has been lopped off in some catastrophic tree injury. However, 2624 is the oldest cypress found in the area. For now. There is some speculation that there may be 3000-year-old cypress trees in the area that have not yet been discovered.

Kayaking trip details

We met Don of Mahanaim Adventures at the Newbees Landing near the Black River Bridge in Kelly. Since this would be our take-out on the trip, we left a shuttle car there and the group drove up to the put-in at Henry’s Landing, located downriver of the State Road 1550 bridge. There were 8 paddlers and Don in the group, although he will take up to 10 trip participants. People could request single or double kayaks.

The kayaking gear was all top-notch. Comfortable Perception or Wilderness Systems kayaks were in great shape. Paddles and lifejackets were also perfect.

After some paddling and safety instruction at the put-in, we launched the boats on the Black River. Don was a fountain of knowledge about the flora and fauna of the area. He’s been outdoors in the area since he was a kid and has been guiding trips through Mahanaim Adventures for 14 years. He leads trips for the Boy Scouts as well as their outdoor leadership training.

The first part of the trip was a 5-mile paddle on the Black River before we got to the swamp. The cypress knees lined the river banks and numerous swamp tree species bent over the river. Don pointed out the call of the Prothonotary Warbler, a brilliant golden bird with blue-gray wings, referred to as a swamp warbler in the south. The little yellow lightbulb followed us the whole trip, flitting into sight every so often. Other wildlife on the river includes turkeys, squirrels, deer, wood ducks, turtles, otters, and beavers.

Related Post -> Kayaking and Camping on Masonboro Island in North Carolina

Kayaking through Three Sisters Swamp

With the high water of the Black River, we were able to duck into the swamp quite easily. Paddling through cypress knees, fallen trees, and narrow corridors was quite an adventure. As was missing the poison ivy-laden trees. Don gave us some time to explore on our own in the swamp. I was back in my heyday of exploring blackwater swamps.

Next, Don introduced us to some massive cypress trees. He explained that even though most people call all the trees bald cypress, there is also pond cypress mixed in the Three Sisters Swamp forest.

We pondered the enigma of cypress knees, those wooden conical roots that protrude above the water around the base of cypress trees. Some research suggests that the knees help with the aeration of the tree, serving as a breathing root. However, after many years of speculation and research, the functions of cypress knees are still undetermined.

The ancient trees

After winding our way through the swamp, we arrived at the area of the ancient trees. Some of the cypress trees were massive, yet other old trees were surprisingly unremarkable in size. The tannins in the water create an acid environment that limits growth. So even the trees dating back to before the Roman Empire can be average by cypress tree mass standards. Don showed us the two trees determined to be the oldest trees in the eastern United States. I wondered if any of the surrounding trees were older. It was exciting to be in the heart of an old-growth stand where so much was still unknown.

Thankfully, the swamp is protected by the Nature Conservancy. Some 16,000 acres of the Black River area have been conserved to prevent the logging of these majestic trees.

We also kayaked by Methuselah and her sisters that give the swamp its name. The sunny spring day gilded the greens of the swamp vegetation into fluorescence. After picking our way through the swamp, we emerged back on the Black River main current. From there it was a 4-mile paddle to the take-out at Newbees Landing near the N.C. 53 bridge in Kelly. Both the put-in and take-out are on private land therefore a nominal launching fee is charged.

Logistics of the Kayaking Trip to the Three Sisters Swamp

Transportation

I flew into the Wilmington airport for my stay in coastal New Carolina. I used Rental Cars to get a good price on a rental for the week. The car rental process is quite easy at the small Wilmington airport. With a car, I was able to do the kayaking trip as well as explore the gorgeous coast in the area. Carolina Beach and Fort Fisher have beautiful beaches and hiking areas. Public transportation is scarce so a car is necessary.

Accommodation

The put-in for the kayak trip is about an hour’s drive from Carolina Beach.

I stayed in a fabulous condo near Freeman Park Beach in Carolina Beach. The property had a pool, tennis courts, and a dedicated private trail to the beach.

There are also ample accommodations in historic Wilmington that are tempting. This small city has endless charm and beauty. Its position on the Cape Fear River adds a nautical vibe to a visit there.

Part of the time I also camped at Carolina Beach State Park. The park has spacious, shaded campsites with centrally located bathhouses in each camping circle. Park entry is free for everyone and there is a senior citizen discount to camp. Wheelchair-accessible campsites and cute camping cabins are also available. The helpful park staff called me back to say a campsite was available when they had all been booked. The trail network at the park is diverse with a hike to a huge sand dune, plus hiking beside the water and through the upland forest. The best hike is the Flytrap Trail to view Venus flytraps and other carnivorous plants. The Venus flytraps only live in the subtropical wetlands within 70 miles of the park.

Kayaking Gear for a Day Trip on the Three Sisters Swamp

My recommended essential gear for a warm weather kayaking day trip with links to where to buy it.

Clothes

Wide brim hat or baseball cap

Long-sleeved synthetic shirt or rash guard for sun protection

Quick dry shorts

Teva or Chaco sandals

Gear

Waterproof phone case

Dry bags

Reef safe sunscreen

Water bottle

Sunglasses with floating retainer

Related post -> The Best Gear for Fantastic Sea Kayaking Camping Adventures

Wrap Up of Kayaking the Three Sisters Swamp

The Black River and Three Sisters Swamp kayaking is among the best outdoor adventures in North Carolina. The experience of seeing ancient trees in a remote wilderness waterway is special. Plus, paddling through the bumper car waters of cypress knees and downed trees is a fantastic adventure. That kind of pathless swamp navigation can only be found in a few places. The blackwater rivers are one. Another are mangrove swamps that can give the same feeling of exploring the unknown while surrounded by rare birds and plant species. My recent trips to Lake Bacalar, Celestun, and Sian Ka’an in Mexico also give a glimpse of the remote natural beauty discovered by kayak.

If you are looking for an outdoor adventure on the North Carolina coast, try Kayaking and Camping on Masonboro Island in North Carolina.

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Disclaimer: I was a guest of Mahanaim Adventures on this trip. I was not compensated or asked to write a positive review. All opinions are from my honest experience.