Fantastic Biking on the Val del Zafán Greenway in Spain

The Val del Zafán Greenway is one of Spain’s most beautiful places for biking. Also known as the Via Verde Val del Zafán, it follows an old railway for 130 km through gorgeous regions of Catalonia.

It passes through dramatic landscapes, tunnels, viaducts, old rail stations, and charming villages in the regions of Teruel, Tarragona, and Bajo Ebro. The landscape is varied from dry plains to lush river valleys. As the route has a mild gradient from the highlands to the sea, it’s a perfect bike trip for all ages.

My friends and I cycled a part of the Val del Zafán Greenway and then extended the ride to the ocean. We had intended to travel the entire route but catastrophic flooding in the area closed some sections of the trail. I highly recommend riding the entire route from Alcañiz in Aragón to the sea at Ebro Delta as a multi-day touring trip. 

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Logistics for Biking the Val del Zafán Greenway

The Touring Company for Biking on the Val del Zafán Greenway

We used Matarrana Adventura to plan our bike touring trip. The owner, Carlos, is highly experienced and deeply loves the Matarrana area. He has been running the business for 11 years and is an expert on the Val del Zafán Greenway.

Matarrana Adventura also offers canyoning, kayaking, ziplining, and Via Ferrata trips; however, its main business is bike trips on the Val del Zafán Greenway.

The equipment provided was exceptional. We used almost new E-bikes. The regular bikes were well-maintained. Helmets and bikelamps to see in the tunnels were provided. There were waterproof panniers for multi-day trips. Families can rent bike trailers to take along the little ones.

The cycling season runs from April to November, with August being the most popular month due to the numerous swim spots along the way. The Greenway can be done as a one-day trip or extended to two or three days with accommodations along the route.

Our original plan was a 3 day overnight cycle trip from Alcaniz to Cretas, day two to Tortosa, and then from Tortosa to Deltebre on day three, However, with the closures due to mudslides, we had to adjust.

Navigation for Biking on the Val del Zafán Greenway

The bike company provides an adequate map of the route. The Via Verde is quite well-marked as well. The last day of our multiday trip was not on the greenway, so we used a bike app on our phones.

eBike Flow is the app we use often while biking in Spain. Bosch designs it for E-bikes and it shows you the most efficient bike routes to any destination.

Communications for Biking the Val del Zafán Greenway

The best way to get the data needed to use the biking apps in Spain is to get an E-sim for your phone.

I’ve become a fan of E-sim cards for communication on international trips. An E-sim card can be bought online and easily installed on your phone before you travel. When you reach your destination, you turn on the E-sim in your settings and you have data to use when you are away from Wifi.

I use an Airalo E-sim card for all my international travel. E-sims are significantly less expensive than my phone carrier’s international charges. Plus, it’s easy to top it off when you run low on data.

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Accommodations for Biking the Val del Zafán Greenway

We loved our accommodation in Arnes on the first day of the trip. LES LLÚDRIGUES Loft House is a delightful apartment in the charming historic village of Arnes. You can walk to restaurants and explore the cobblestone alleys. The fully furnished terrace with mountain views is incredible.

Hotel SB Corona in Tortosa prides itself on welcoming cyclists. The garage has a secure bike storage cage with charging stations, a repair workshop, and even a laundry room for dirty cycling gear. The hotel also curates bike routes for guests and rents bikes. The breakfast buffet is ideal for cyclists, offering fruit, cheese, pastries, tortillas, eggs, sausages, ham, and freshly baked bread, along with an automatic coffee machine for the perfect morning brew.

In Horte de Sant Joan, Casa Garí is a wonderful two-bedroom apartment right in the center of the village. You can stroll through this picturesque village, enjoying the history of Picasso and the local life. After, you can relax in the comfy apartment featuring air conditioning, a fully equipped kitchen with a dining area, and a flat-screen TV.

Getting around Spain

A rental car made our travel around Spain a breeze. As it turned out, renting a car was cheaper and much easier than trying to piece together public transportation in the remote areas we visited.

I personally use and recommend Discover Cars for your Spain car rental. Discover Cars works with reliable local car rental companies to give you the best price and rental experience. I’ve used them often and have always been happy with the car rental.

I flew into and out of Madrid, so I rented the car there. The company I used through Discover Cars gave me a free upgrade to a hybrid vehicle so gas for the trip was super cheap.

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Biking on the Val del Zafán Greenway

Biking around Cretas

Due to the closures on the Val del Zafán Greenway, we biked in the magnificent area around Cretas. There are many E-biking trails throughout the region that are a fantastic trip in addition to the Via Verde.

Our ride took us along old farm roads and mixed-use trails for cyclists and hikers. Later in the day, due to a road closure, we had to ride on the main road, but the traffic was manageable, and Spanish drivers were very respectful, giving us plenty of space.

Along the way, we reached an intersection leading to ancient funerary sites—circular stone mounds from the 7th to 6th century BC with entryways into underground crypts. We continued past olive orchards and vineyards, riding along curated bike pathways in the Matarraña region. One highlight was an abandoned building with remnants of paintings and a monk’s cave-style underground cellar.

The route wound through oak and pine forests, feeling truly remote. We arrived in Arens de Lledó and stopped for coffee at a local café/hostel, where a wool convention was taking place. The variety of locally produced wool was fascinating.

Biking to Horta de Sant Joan

We then decided to visit Horta de Sant Joan, one of the most charming towns on the Via Verde. Although the Greenway closure had initially made us think we might miss it, we made sure to go. The town was an inspiration for Picasso, who came at 17 to recover from scarlet fever and later returned to live and paint. The landscape inspired many of his works. A striking flat-topped rock, known as the Roques de Benet, towers over the sandstone-colored town.

For those seeking a more adventurous bike experience beyond the Greenway, renting a mountain bike and creating a custom route through the towns, back roads, and trails is a fantastic option. The mountain bikes are sturdy enough to handle double-track trails.

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Biking the Val del Zafán Greenway- Day One

Matarrana Adventura transported riders and bikes to Pinell de Brai since the rail trail between Cretas and Pinell de Brai was closed due to mud and rockfalls. After receiving some local information that the Via Verde section up to Bot was open, we headed in that direction.

Biking Uphill to Bot

The 9 km of Greenway uphill to Bot was in perfect condition. The scenery was stunning, with immense canyons flanking the route and sandstone escarpments towering over the distant river valley. We passed through many tunnels, one of which was over 700 meters long—spooky, as the lights didn’t turn on!

Cycling through the remote valley toward Bot, we passed towering pine trees and rolling farmland dotted with fruit trees. Locals say the best part of the Greenway is from Valderrobres to Pinell de Brai, as it is an easy, continuous downhill ride that allows you to enjoy the scenery without too much effort.

We stopped for coffee at a roadside food truck before heading back downhill to Pinell de Brai. We had a lovely picnic overlooking the valley, enjoying jamón, truffle cheese, olives, garlic aioli, bread, avocado, clementines, and hazelnut meringues. Wild rosemary, picked along the way, enhanced our sandwiches.

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Biking Pinell de Brai to Tortosa

The distance from Pinell de Brai to Tortosa is 27 km. The route passed crumbling railway stations and tunnels through the sandstone headwalls. The abandoned railway stations featured intricate architecture influenced by various cultures.

As we descended toward Tortosa, the landscape shifted. The Ebro River grew larger, flanked by highways and vast Valencia orange orchards. We reached a fish ladder near a dam and watched fish navigating upstream to spawn.

Upon reaching Tortosa, we navigated city streets to our hotel, which was perfectly set up to welcome cyclists. It’s easy to wheel your bike into a garage with locked cages, and all the cycling equipment you need to maintain your bike.

Biking the Val del Zafán Greenway- Day Two

Day two of our overnight bike trip, from Tortosa to the Delta of the Ebro River, was my favorite.

We left Tortosa and cycled along the canals, as the official Val de Zafan bike trail ends in Tortosa. The route took us past orange groves, olive trees, and small farmhouses. We followed the Ebro River on one side and vast rice fields on the other. The path was shaded by beech and sycamore trees, with frequent sightings of gray herons taking flight from the fields.

Upon reaching Deltebre, a large town by the river, we decided to bike the extra 8 km to the ocean. The road led through checkerboard-patterned rice fields, past flocks of black ibis, herons, and cattle egrets.

Eventually, we arrived at the coast, where a spectacular surprise awaited us—huge flocks of flamingos resting offshore. Some spread their wings to reveal bright orange feathers. Most were pale pink, indicating they were young. Flamingos remain in the Delta year-round but mainly breed in winter. The birdlife, from wading birds to flocks of songbirds overhead, made the area a paradise for birdwatchers.

After some time watching the flamingos, we cycled back through the rice paddies to our meeting point to be shuttled back to the bike company in Cretas. Arriving early, we squeezed in a quick but delicious lunch featuring paella made with the very rice we had just biked past. Topped with langoustines, it was the perfect way to end our ride. We also enjoyed tuna tartare and a crisp Spanish white wine.

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Wrap Up of Biking the Val del Zafán Greenway

Overall, the Greenway was breathtaking, with constantly shifting scenery. It transitioned from mountains to flatlands, then to the Delta with its sprawling rice fields, before finally reaching the ocean with its fishing boats and flamingos. It was an unforgettable cycling adventure!

While we planned a three-day overnight bike trip transporting our gear on the bikes, you can also do amazing day trips in the area. Carlos of Matarrana Adventura can assist you in choosing the route that best fits the time you want to spend on the Val del Zafán Greenway.

Disclaimer: I was a guest of Matarrana Adventura on this trip. I was not compensated or asked to write a positive review. All opinions are from my honest experience.

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