It’s a well-kept secret that a few miles across the Vermont/Quebec border there is a wealth of gorgeous natural destinations. Called the Eastern Townships, the outdoor adventures in this area are sublime. Think biking on traffic-free roads that glide past pastoral farm scenes, hiking up peaks for views of crystal clear glaciated lakes, or kayaking on streams and lakes with towering mountains surrounding you.
During the American Revolution, British Loyalists hurried across the border to build red brick houses in Canada and maintain allegiance to British kings and queens. The charming towns they created are still here with a nod back to simpler times. However, French culture is more prevalent now.
A trip to the Eastern Townships is like a quick visit to France without a plane. Travel 10 miles over the Vermont border to the town of Sutton to start a journey through French culture. While less than 4% of the primary English speakers in Quebec live in the Eastern Townships, most folks you meet are bilingual so knowing French is not necessary for a fantastic trip.
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Where are the Eastern Townships?
The Eastern Townships are located in south-central Quebec between Montreal and Quebec City. In French, they are known as Cantons de l’Est. The area is broken up into nine regions, each with unique outdoor adventures. My intention was to visit the regions on the Vermont border to emphasize how close the Eastern Townships are to the US. I chose to explore the Brome-Missisquoi, Memphremagog, and Coaticook River Valley regions.
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When is the Best Time for Outdoor Adventures in the Eastern Townships?
The simple answer is that every season has amazing outdoor adventures in the Eastern Townships of Quebec. The spring, summer, and fall have perfect weather for hiking. The temperate summers are ideal for paddling and biking.
If you are astounded by the fall colors of New England, you are going to love the vibrant foliage of the Eastern Townships. Maple trees turn to fire toward the end of September, and the colors reflected in the quiet ponds in the quaint villages are worth the trip north.
Finally, the Eastern Townships turn into a snowy wonderland in the winter with downhill skiing, cross country skiing, snowshoeing, fat biking, and ice skating and fishing opportunities.
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Biking Outdoor Adventures of the Eastern Townships
If there is one outdoor adventure that the Eastern Townships do incredibly well, it’s cycling. Routes designed for road bikers, bike paths, and mountain bike trails are everywhere in this region of Quebec. The main roads are biker-friendly and you’ll hardly see a car on the gravel backroads. Plus, the scenery can’t be beat. For example, pastoral farmland, covered bridges, picturesque villages, and a bike trail lined with artists’ sculptures can all be found. Tourism Eastern Townships has a map booklet of 20 carefully curated biking routes.
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Biking in the Treetops
My first cycling adventure was biking in the trees at Au Diable Vert near Glen Sutton. It’s a canopy walk on a recumbant bicycle. You pedal through the hemlock and maple trees 100 feet above the ground. Called the VéloVolant, it is one of three in the world. The other similar course are in Mexico and the Everglades. Most importantly, VéloVolant is the highest in the world.
The folks at Au Diable Vert emphasize pedaling slowly through the canopy to enjoy the beautiful nature. Unlike a zip line, you take your time to become immersed in the tops of the trees.
The cable line stays at about the same altitude with a few little tiny ups and downs as it winds through the trees. Consequently, pedaling is easy on the flat course. You can take a break whenever you want to peer down into the forest below or across at the Green Mountains.
Artria Cultural Loop
The Eastern Townships have many flat bike paths that used to be railroads. One of the more unique is the Artria Cultural Loop, an enjoyable loop in the Granby area that has rural, waterfront, and small city sites. I enjoyed the works of art along the trail as I sped along. Over 60 artists have pieces along the trail, each one a special surprise as you ride along. The paved bike path is 34 km, however, you can continue on 21 km of gravel path to ride through the Parc National de la Yamaska. There is parking and amenities to access the bike path at Waterloo, near Shefford, and Granby.
For a shorter 22 km ride, the Estriade Bike Path between Waterloo and Granby has less than a 2% climb so it’s very family-friendly. For more information on other bike trails I have ridden in the Eastern Townships, check out my post named In Search of Three Pines: A Fascinating Tour of Louise Penny’s Inspirations.
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Gravel Road Biking in the Coaticook Valley
The quiet roads and bucolic farmsteads of the Coaticook Valley are a prime biking destination. I rode an E-bike over the rolling gravel roads with enough scenery to take my breath away. I did one of the Tourism Eastern Townships recommended routes called Mystic Chameleon. Indeed, it was mystic and the scenery changed color like a chameleon. It’s listed as difficult due to the rolling hills, however, on an E-bike it’s a breeze.
Rental of E-bikes is easy in Coaticook. Benoit of VeloTric has a variety of top-notch E-bikes for you to try.
One highlight along the route is a historic round barn built in 1907 that has been carefully preserved. Make sure to stop to say hi to the friendly farm animals along the way, too.
You’ll develop an appetite from cycling all those hills and past all that beauty. Stop at the Fromagerie La Station in Compton. Don’t miss the grilled cheese sandwich that comes with a side of maple jelly. Likewise, take the tour and marvel at the cheese museum.
Once you are back on the road, you may be biking straight out of Compton, however, the scenery will look like something straight out of Tuscany.
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Kayaking Outdoor Adventures of the Eastern Townships
Missiquoi River Kayaking
Kayaking on the Missiquoi River near Glen Sutton is a delightful journey tracing the routes the Abenaki people used long ago to travel between settlements. The river is now a part of the Northern Forest Canoe Trail.
The outfitter I used was Canoe & Co. which is run by Frank and his family. They have been in business for the last 20 years. The 12 km kayak trip starts upriver and ends at their base in Glen Sutton. They rent boats for unguided trips so you can do the 3-hour paddle on your own by using their shuttle.
The Missiquoi River is a slow-moving stream, surrounded by farm fields, forests, and mountains. It meanders along gently letting you be immersed in nature, take lots of pictures, and enjoy the company on your paddling trip. There are very few points of civilization so you can just enjoy the river and wildlife. Chase a rattling kingfisher down the river, or scare up a flock of mergansers.
You can explore inlet streams along the way to see the clear water that enters the Missiquoi River. Chiseled clay banks line the river. There are a couple of quick water spots making the kayaking fun for experienced folks and exciting for beginners.
National Parks Kayaking
Kayaking is an enjoyable way to see the remote lakesides in the national parks in the Eastern Townships. I kayaked at Parc National du Mont-Orford on Lac Stukely. As motorboats are banned from the park, a peaceful paddle is possible. Stunning reflections of the surrounding mountains coat the water’s surface. A series of floating buoys have interesting facts about the lake. Paddle by them but keep your Google Translate handy because they’re in French. There is a kayak/canoe/paddleboard rental center on the lake.
Yamaska National Park and Frontenac National Park also have places to kayak and canoe. Lake Memphremagog is also a popular place to kayak. Rent boats at Vie de Plein Air in Magog.
Hiking Outdoor Adventures of the Eastern Townships
Mont Pinnacle Hike
Mont Pinnacle near Coaticook is an easy hike with maximum return. The peak rises between the surrounding lakes, standing tall over the plains. Its solid granite rock resisted the Ice Age glaciers that ground away neighboring hills.
A 3km hike through mixed hardwoods takes about 45 minutes to reach the summit. You will emerge on a granite shelf for views of Lake Lyster and Little Lake Baldwin. In the background are the mountains of Vermont. A total of 5 trails gives you lots of options for the return hike.
Similar to many of the hikes in Quebec, there is a fee charged to hike the mountain. You can buy your timed ticket online for $7 CND.
Hiking in Mont-Orford
You could hike for days and not finish all the hikes around Mont Orford. Access to the peaks of the ski area is by the ski trails. There are five lookouts on the mountain that give an incredible panorama of the Memphrémagog region. Hiking on Mont-Orford is free.
The other option for hiking around Mont-Orford is at the Parc National du Mont-Orford. There is a $9.55 CND entrance fee per adult in the Quebec national parks. The myriad of trails that surround the lake are rated for all levels of hiker. I enjoyed the Pekan trail which led to an outstanding viewpoint.
Hiking in Parc de la Gorge
This national park in Coaticook boasts the longest suspension footbridge in the world. It’s part of the 19 km of hiking trails in Parc de la Gorge National Park.
I hiked the Gorge Trail with Josee, a park manager, as she explained about Foresta Lumina, a unique nighttime activity at the park
When I first read about the Foresta Lumina, I thought it was a lighted path through the forest, but it turns out it is much more elaborate, magical, and beautiful. Josee showed me all the lights and described the projections along the 3 km trail. I totally want to come back and see it. It is the story of a magical character called Marguerite and her journey through the forest. Early in your adventure, you make a wish, and the story follows that wish, with the idea that it will come to fruition. Josee told me the story of when she was young, she went to the Foresta Lumina on her birthday. She fell in love with the park and her wish was to come back and work at Foresta Lumina. The wish came true as now she’s been working at Parc de la Gorge for nine years.
The Gorge Trail hike
The Gorge Trail follows along the river and over the suspension bridge, giving a 300 m berth above the river. As you follow the trail, it descends into the gorge and so you get an eye-level picture of the gorge and the dam that controls the river. The dam creates power for 5 to 10% of the town of Coaticook. There is also a human-made cave where green moss and mini stalactites drip from the cave. The trail follows the river and crosses a smaller bridge to make its way back to the welcome center.
In sum, these are beautiful hiking trails, plus you can bring your leased dog.
Camping and Glamping Outdoor Adventures of the Eastern Townships
Camping takes on new meaning in the Eastern Townships. I visited several areas with unique camping and glamping facilities that make it easy to commune with nature in ultimate comfort.
Huttopia
While staying in a tent at Huttopia, I kept forgetting I was camping. That’s because the tent has a bathroom with a hot shower, a kitchen with running water, and a wood stove inside. I kept thinking I needed to step outside to find a water spigot or an outhouse, however, everything I needed was inside the spic and span tent, including a comfortable bed with fresh linens. I don’t think I’ve ever been more spoiled camping.
The Huttopia company started with a campsite in the Alps in France in 2000 and has spread to over 60 locations on three continents. In North America, there are Huttopia sites in southern Maine, the White Mountains, the Adirondacks, and two in California. I stayed in the only one in Canada in Sutton, Quebec.
The range of Huttopia camping experiences spans campsites to rent all the way to tiny house cabins for glamping. I was like Goldilocks wanting to try them all out to see which was just right. The structures are located quite close together in the woods so you won’t find total solitude.
The Trappeur tent I called home sleeps five people. There is a veranda with a BBQ grill and a sitting area hovering above a scenic stream in the woods.
The central reception area has a cafe, camp store, lounge area with games, and a swimming pool. Nearby hiking trails connect to the Mont Sutton trail system.
Au Diable Vert
Au Diable Vert in Glen Sutton is a mountaintop property with the feeling of the Swiss Alps. It is a four-season outdoor center with unique accommodations. Each one overlooks the Green Mountains or the Missisquoi River Valley. Au Diable Vert is dog friendly with many people sharing accommodations with their canine friends.
Camping is at one of 19 wilderness campsites with a picnic table, fire ring, and nearby outhouse. There are seven kinds of four-season ecolodges at Au Diable Vert including cute little pod cabins, cliff-side cabins, treehouses, rustic cabins, and modern mountain view suites. There are cozy two-person cabins and ones that house up to eight people for larger groups. Most of the cabins encircle the alpine meadow. They are situated for maximum views of the jaw-dropping scenery. You can watch the fancy cows in the mountaintop meadow as you transport your gear to your cabin in a wheeled wagon.
I was enchanted by the treehouse cabin named Abenaki. Nestled in the spreading limbs of a 100-year-old maple, I relived all my Swiss Family Robinson dreams. The amenities are simple with a fold out futon for sleeping. However, this is a place to commune with nature so there’s nothing like hunkering down by the wood stove and enjoying the night sky.
Auberge du changement d’ère
You will find some of the most unique accommodations in the Eastern Townships at Auberge du changement d’ere. The property is owned by a young couple who are artists/engineers. Thus, the buildings display their creativity. Chloe and Joel have a dream of a group eco-futuristic habitats where visitors can partake in a feeling of community.
The glamping experience at Auberge du changement d’ere is the Air Drops (Goutte d’Air), shimmering metal-encased tear drops seemingly suspended in the air. The interior has a clever table that folds down into a bed. The net loft has a ladder for kids to explore and sleep in the top of the Air Drop. A nearby restroom with showers and an outdoor kitchen for cooking is shared with other Air Droppers.
Since the Air Drops are still being finished, I stayed in one of the Ultra Yurts on the property. These hard-shell yurts are deluxe accommodations with artful touches. One yurt has an adobe-style dome wrapped around the bedroom to make a cozy private chamber. All the yurts have full kitchens and bathrooms.
If you are looking for a unique way of living close to nature and interacting with other visitors in the many shared outdoor spaces, then Auberge du changement d’ere is for you. It is located a short walk from Parc de la Gorge in Coaticook.
Camping in the Eastern Townships
Besides the facilities mentioned, the best place to camp in the areas I’ve explored are the national parks. Parc National du Mont-Orford has traditional campsites ranging from walk-in rustic sites to campsites with full services. There is also a melange of camping structures including huts, ready-to-camp tents, and cabins.
Parc de la Gorge in Coaticook has a similar setup with a range of camping options. The campground has access to hiking trails and 23 km of single-track mountain biking.
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Things to Do After Your Outdoor Adventures of the Eastern Townships
Relax in a Spa
After a day of outdoor adventures in the Eastern Townships, it’s time to indulge in a spa treatment to soothe the aching muscles. Fortunately, there are a number of spas scattered across the Eastern Townships.
If you haven’t been to a Quebec spa, don’t miss it. Most have different ways to heat your body up and cool it down including a polar plunge in the on-site river. For example, the spa I visited had two Finnish saunas, a Russian banya, a eucalyptus steam crypt, two large Californian tubs, two Nordic waterfalls, and access to the river. The Nordic spa concept popular in Canada uses the basic circuit of hot, cold, rest, and repeat.
I availed myself of the pleasures at the Spa Nordic Station in Magog which specializes in thermal therapy. I went from hot tub or sauna to cooling pool or river to relaxation chambers. Signs encourage you to sauna and cool down in a cold water pool or in the natural river running by. You then finish the cycle with a period of 15 to 20 minutes of relaxation. Comfy chairs abound and rooms with spa beds invite. There’s also a relaxation studio with a wood-burning stove.
Every detail for relaxation and comfort is accounted for including thirsty towels and snuggly robes with hoods. Much of the spa area is a zone of silence so you can be peacefully one with nature. It is a meditative reflective time for your mind and body.
Visit a Winery
When you taste a Quebec wine you know it is the definition of local. The vintner is required to use at least 80% Quebec-grown grapes in their wines. No shipping in grapes from California in these wines.
A visit to a vineyard in Quebec is the perfect post-outdoor activity thing to do. I stopped by the Vignoble d’Orford winery in Orford. Not only is the wine divine, but the views of Lake Memphremagog, Mont Orford, and the mountains of Vermont over the fields of vines are amazing. Pierre introduced me to orange wine, a white wine with macerated skins and seeds left in to give it an orange hue.
Enjoy a Microbrewery
I have to confess -I’ve been spoiled by Vermont craft beer. So much so that for years I could never find a Quebec beer to love. That’s all changed now after visiting many microbreweries in the Eastern Townships. It seems like every town has a microbrewery and the craft brewing here is top notch.
There is a microbrewery map if you want to raise a glass in a few of the 29 microbrasseries of the region. My favorites? The creamy stout at Microbrasserie de Coaticook and the red ale from the last of the cask at Sutton Brouërie.
Go Fishing
Acoatica is the perfect family adventure to learn about the aquatic life of the region. The whole facility is an interactive game to dive into the world of fish. It’s hard to explain, however, it was one of the most inimitable concepts in nature education I’ve ever seen.
The high point is fishing for trout in the ponds on the site. The fish are easy to catch so no worries about coming up empty. An employee cleans your fish. Then you can either take it home on ice or use the BBQ grills to cook it and enjoy it on at the picnic tables.
The experiential learning of Acoatica is amazing. This is definitely a place the kids will love (and the adults too).
Logistics for Outdoor Adventures of the Eastern Townships
You will need a car to explore the Eastern Townships. If you are coming by plane, fly into Montreal Airport (YUL) and rent a car. I recommend and use Discover Cars for headache-free car rentals. They contract with a number of reputable rental agencies and offer the best prices.
Accommodations in the Eastern Townships
Auberge de la Tour & Spa is a Neo-colonial Inn built in 1876. Plus it’s a mear 5 minutes from Mount Orford. I loved the bright rooms of the B&B. There is also an in-ground pool, sauna, and spa to enjoy. The breakfast, prepared by one of the owners who previously was a chef, was a gourmet feast heavy on healthy.
In North Hatley, Hovey Manor overlooking Lake Massawippi is a deluxe inn that has hosted the Hilary and Bill Clinton. If you want to stay in the charming village of North Hatley, the Auberge La Chocolatiere is a chocolate-themed inn set on the lake offering a breakfast of chocolate crepes or waffles in the morning.
Knowlton is a village of Lac-Brome with many sights right out of Canadian mystery writer Louise Penny’s fictional Three Pines novels. The Alberge Knowlton is a B&B and bistro in the center of town. If you want beautiful spacious grounds with a pool, Domaine Jolivent B&B is a 10-minute drive to Knowlton. It is an excellent place to stay to explore the whole Lac-Brome area.
Sutton is another great place to stay. It has the inimitable La Rumuer Affamee for a delightful repast. Plus, two microbreweries in town and several stops on the wine route nearby make it an excellent base for explorations. Le Pleasant Hôtel & Café is a Victorian mansion converted to a hotel in a perfect location in Sutton.
Wrap Up Outdoor Adventures of the Eastern Townships
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It’s hard to believe that you can get a taste of France just a few miles over the Vermont border. My trip to the Eastern Townships looking for outdoor adventure confirmed that it’s true. So polish up your French or download Goggle Translator and enjoy this amazing region of Quebec. You won’t run out of hiking, biking, kayaking, and camping adventures here. Use the excellent Tourism Eastern Townships website to find an abundance of outdoor things to do.
Disclaimer: I was a guest of Tourism Eastern Townships on this trip. I was not compensated or asked to write a positive review. All opinions are from my honest experience.
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4 Comments
Rachel · October 5, 2023 at 9:33 am
Crazy that a whole new world is just a couple of hours from Vermont! I’d love to sleep in that treehouse!
Ashlea · October 5, 2023 at 10:31 am
This looks like a perfect fall getaway! Thanks for sharing.
Tia · October 5, 2023 at 2:43 pm
I definitely want to go for a bike ride in the tree tops! What a fun place
Sue tippett · October 10, 2023 at 7:41 am
Your pictures and write ups are always breathtaking. I can’t wait to follow in your footsteps to some of these places.