The Ojos Negros Greenway is 160 kilometers of scenic beauty from the seat of a bicycle. It is Spain’s longest Via Verde (Greenway), starting in the mountains and ending at sea near Valencia. A multi-day trip biking on the Ojos Negros Greenway is a perfect way to explore historic towns, whizz through pine and oak forests, pass groves of oranges and olives, and marvel at viaducts, tunnels, and dilapidated train stations.
I did a four-day bike trip with friends in November on the Ojos Negros Greenway. Starting in the medieval town of Albarracin, we pedaled to the end of the Greenway at Torres Torres. We carried our gear and stayed in bike-friendly lodging along the way. We used electric bikes, although regular bikes are fine for biking on the Ojos Negros Greenway. Our daily distances were intentionally kept short to prioritize exploring the Spanish countryside and towns.
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What is the Ojos Negros Greenway
The Ojos Negros Greenway is built on an abandoned narrow-gauge railway. The train was used to transport iron ore from mines near the town of Ojos Negros to the Mediterranean Sea at Puerto Sagunto. In 1972, the rail line closed. Regional governments turned the railway into a Via Verde to promote cycle tourism.
The Greenway is easy to ride, primarily going downhill as it descends to the sea. It’s perfect for families as it’s safe for children. In addition, those interested in slow cycling will enjoy taking their time to immerse in the culture and nature of the area. It’s also easy to find your way on the well-signposted route.
The best time to ride the Greenway is from March to June and September to early November. The summer heat makes the Via Verde unbearable in July and August. We enjoyed our trip in November as we saw few other cyclists and had great weather. It was a little chilly but proper clothing made it pleasant.
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Logistics for Biking the Ojos Negros Greenway
The Touring Company for Biking on the Ojos Negros Greenway
We used Cycling Spain to plan our bike touring trip. The company offers cycling holidays all over Spain. We worked with Thijs, the company’s owner, to customize a trip with everything we wanted. The company takes care of everything for a self-guided tour including booking hotels, trip navigation, luggage transfer, insurance, and 24hr. help along the way. The company works with local partners to provide an excellent experience.
In our case, the local bike company, Mediterranean Bike Tours was fabulous. They provided daily messages about the route, where to eat, and what to see. The e-bikes were top-of-the-line Moustache step-through models that were super comfortable and had lots of power on hills. Accessories such as phone mounts, waterproof panniers, and bike lights were appreciated.
Navigation on the Ojos Negros Greenway
Cycling Spain provided very accurate GPX tracks for us to follow. A GPX file is an electronic format for sharing cycling or walking routes. You can view and follow on a phone or bike-mounted GPS device. We plugged the GPX files into the BikeGPX app on our phones. The free version can be downloaded from the app store.
eBike Flow is another app we used often while biking in Spain. Bosch designs it for E-bikes and it shows you the most efficient bike routes to any destination.
Communications for Biking the Ojos Negros Greenway
The best way to get the data needed to use the biking apps in Spain is to get an E-sim for your phone.
I’ve become a fan of E-sim cards for communication on international trips. An E-sim card can be bought online and easily installed on your phone before you travel. When you reach your destination, you turn on the E-sim in your settings and you have data to use when you are away from Wifi.
I use an Airalo E-sim card for all my international travel. E-sims are significantly less expensive than my phone carrier’s international charges. Plus, it’s easy to top them off when you run low on data.
Getting around Spain
A rental car made our travel around Spain a breeze. As it turned out, it was cheaper and much easier to rent a car than to try to piece together public transportation in the remote areas we visited.
I use and recommend Discover Cars for your Spain car rental. Discover Cars works with reliable local car rental companies to give you the best price and rental experience. I’ve used them often and have always been happy with the car rental.
I flew into and out of Madrid, so I rented the car there. The company I used through Discover Cars gave me a free upgrade to a hybrid vehicle so gas for the trip was super cheap.
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Trip Description of 4-day Bike Tour on the Ojos Negros Greenway
Day One: Albarracin to Teruel
The meeting place for our tour was in Torres Torres at the free public parking lot where we left our rental car for four days. The bike company van arrived precisely at nine to pick us up and shuttle us and gear to the start of the route.
The bike company recommended we start the trip in Albarracin, instead of the original start of the Greenway in Santa Eulalia del Campo. Albarracin is one of the top ten medieval villages in Spain. It was instantly apparent why we started in the beautiful city.
The city was an awesome combination of Moorish towers, 10-foot-wide stone walls that protected the old city, and centuries-old buildings. We got lost in the narrow, cobblestoned alleyways and walking streets. A castle on the hill commands a view of the village.
The tiny streets all funnel into the Plaza Mayor with amazing views over the Guadalaviar River. Trees in shades of yellow and red were set against the hills.
We found a tiny patisserie tucked into the walls of the village. We picked up bread for lunch and croissants for a snack before we took off. Fortified by a cafe con leche and a croissant at a café in the plaza, we were off on our bike trip.
Starting the bike tour from Albarracin
Although we weren’t on the Greenway for the first day, it was a spectacular bike ride. It started by climbing from the historic town up into the Sierra de Albarracín mountains. A forest of pines lined the roadsides as we cycled through the Protected Landscape of Los Pinares del Rodeno. There were places to pull off (called miradors) for amazing viewpoints of the area.
There is a rock climbing area in the park and we saw many people with bouldering pads heading out to the cliffs. Numerous rock art panels are a highlight in the park. From the Doña Clotilde parking lot, we did a short hike into the Doña Clotilde rock art panel. It was a fabulous display of prehistoric artwork dating from around 4500 BC.
As we hiked out, we met two men collecting mushrooms. They had a full basket of beautiful orange mushrooms. The park has zones where you can pick the mushrooms. However, you must have a permit. Certainly, it was a popular pastime based on the number of mushroom pickers everywhere in the park.
We stopped for the lunch we had brought along in the small town of Bezas. Relaxing on benches looking out over the river and green spaces, we munched on our avocado, tomato, and cheese sandwiches on the crusty loaf we had bought in Albarracin.
After we descended in sweeping turns down the other side of the mountain through the pine forest, we arrived at a high plane. You could see for miles in all directions. A checkerboard of farm fields painted the land. It’s a wonder things grow in the fields that are chock full of small rocks. It looks like they farm rocks rather than plants.
Biking into Teruel
After we left the high plain, we swooped down from the mountains into the town of San Blas. Soon we joined into tiny roads that let us the back way into Teruel. The rural roads were a delight of local culture, riverside rides, and weaving roads between farm fields. It was a fantastic route into the city, full of charm and yellow cottonwoods and red poplar trees lining the riverbeds.
Finally, we arrived at Teruel. We rode on the city streets and then continued into tiny alleyways, weaving in and out until we came to our apartment. Teruel is a UNESCO World Heritage Site worth exploring, so make sure to wander in this Spanish City of Love. We enjoyed a unique and yummy dinner at Gastrotaberna Locavore.
The route for the day was 28.9 miles. The first part was a lot of climbing, however it was made easy with the E-bikes. The latter half of the day was a combination of swooping down hills and flat pedaling in the valley.
Day Two: Teruel to Albentosa
Our navigation tracks took us on a circuitous route out of Teruel. The route descended on bumpy dirt roads past the dinosaur museum and into the valley. At first, we rode part of the famous pilgrimage trail, the Camino de Santiago. Then we finally reached the Ojos Negros Via Verde. After some rough roads in the morning, the Greenway was perfect crushed gravel and easy to ride. We crossed some major viaducts and under a few tunnels. We were never certain if the lights would come on in the tunnel to guide the way. Relying on pure trust, we hoped there wasn’t a big pothole that would swallow us in the tunnel.
The route ran along the major highway for a while. Soon, we rode through an area of farms and orchards. The olives had been harvested and big bags of them waited in the field. There was more farmland where again it looked like they harvested nothing but rocks.
We stopped at the first dilapidated old station on the Greenway. It was a remembrance of days gone by. Now the new train runs parallel to the Greenway path in some places.
As we continued to descend in the afternoon, we rode past pine trees, then Holm oak trees, and finally cedar trees. All the trees made a nice tunnel on the roadway. This would create some shade in the summer, although I don’t recommend doing this trail in the summer.
There weren’t many towns along the way today, just a few old railroad stops. Fondica de la Estacion had a large restaurant, but it was closed when we rode through. The biggest town was Sarrion, that had a spigot to refill water.
Trail obstructions
Normally the Greenway is smooth sailing but with the torrential rains in Spain in fall 2024, there were some trail obstructions. We met two bikers coming the other way who told us that there were big mudslides outside of Sarrion and to use the roads. We decided to risk it, knowing we could backtrack to hop off the route if necessary. But we did find a huge pile of sticky red clay blocking the Greenway. We pulled our bikes over the top of the sticky hills and rode through some mud until we were at the end. There were several places where the cliffs had let loose and scattered mud and what looked like moonrock everywhere. We decided to go over all the rocky places rather than backtracking.
A Spanish truck stop
Soon we reached Albentosa. The end of this second-day route was supposed to be at Estacion del Morelas but we had accommodations further along on the Greenway. We arrived at our hostel around 5 PM. It was a Spanish version of a truck stop with a large cafeteria serving grilled meats, delicious hamburgers, and a roasted vegetable platter that was to die for. We put our bikes in the locked garage, however, it only has one electrical outlet. Consequently, one of us had to get up at five in the morning to switch the chargers out on the bikes.
The normal biking package for this route has pre-selected hotels where it’s easy to charge the E-bikes. We booked all our own accommodations and enjoyed them tremendously. However, it was challenging to charge the bikes because the bike company didn’t give us a key to take the batteries out of the bikes. They use hotels where the batteries are charged in the bikes.
The ride on day two was just over 30 miles.
Day Three: Albentosa-Segorbe
Day three was the longest ride of the trip. It is normally 67 km or 40 miles to Segorge. However, we did an extra 5 km the day before so it was 37 miles.
We set out from our Spanish truck stop and peddled down a rural lane until we intersected with the Via Verde. We rode through farmlands and olive groves. There were some fallen banks along the way where we had to push the bikes over muddy hills of red clay, but it was very manageable.
The first part of the day was gentle climbing. We eventually reached the crest of the ridge that was covered with windmills. It was exhilarating to ride under the whirling and turning windmills. Once we were past them, the trail started to descend. It was a blast to go steadily downhill and just watch the scenery as you floated down with gravity. There were a few more viaducts and tunnels.
Abandoned train stations
The trail followed the ridge for a while with commanding views of the mountains and fields in the distance. There were more abandoned train stations with falling-in ceilings. Many had recreational areas for people who were biking or walking to enjoy the picnic tables or facilities. However, most of the facilities were closed because it was November. We continued downhill past the Holm oaks and Valencia oaks also known as gall oaks.
At some places, a single line of pine trees lined the bike trail. Other times guard rails kept you from falling hundreds of feet into an abyss. It was a chilly day, so we rode with hats or buffs under our helmets and gloves. The wind would push us sideways on some of the exposed areas.
We stopped at one of the picnic areas for a snack of clementines and cookies. This day had several historic villages along the route to explore. We looked for the famous Jericano cake in Jerica, but the bakery was closed.
A waterfall and an old elm tree
A highlight of the day was a side trip off the Via Verde to see a 60-foot waterfall and a 500-year-old elm tree. Part of the route turned into a mountain bike track with twisty turns and steep uphills. There were several places we had to walk our bikes. we even went past a rock climbing wall cemented to the side of a building. Finally, we arrived at the Salto de la Novia waterfall with its towering cascade falling onto emerald-colored rocks below.
Then we doubled back into the town of Navajas to find the main square with the 500-year-old elm tree. It is one of the three most prominent trees in Spain. It was an impressive spread of grandeur through the humongous trunk and spread-out branches.
Roadside groves into Seborge
After we left the elm tree, we headed to Seborge. We rode through some colorful orchards and farms. Fully loaded orange trees were growing on both sides of the road. Then we turned the corner and found persimmon trees loaded with pink-orange fruit. There were also pear trees and olive orchards with black olives falling in the road. It was a perfect ending for the day.
We navigated our way into the city of Seborge. Our beautiful apartment was in the historic center of the city. That night’s hotel had a garage nearby to store the bikes. We had only one plug again, but Lucia, the amazing manager, found an extension cord with three outlets so we could charge all of the bikes overnight.
Overall, it was a long day, but the downhill made it very manageable. It was pleasurable to ride with the wind in our face downhill as we soaked in the scenery.
Day Four: Seborge to Torres Torres
Our last day was an easy 22 miles from Seborge to Torres Torres. Our lovely apartment in Seborge was situated over a bakery, so we snuck down in the morning and got baked goods for a traditional Spanish breakfast with our coffee.
Bulls and Horses entry event
Before we left town, we went to the tourism office to see the video of the popular event with horses and bulls held in Segorbe every year. Thirteen horses are specially selected with riders in uniform to bring in six bulls. A huge crowd gathers in the street and the horses run at breakneck speed in a U shape hussling the bulls between them. People in the crowd stand in front until the very last minute before they jump to the side before they are trampled. It only lasts about a minute, but it is a huge event in the city.
It happens each day for one week in September. The whole town turns out and there are drums, marching bands, and people in traditional clothing. In the old days, this was the way they brought the bulls down from the high pastures. Today it is mainly ceremonial.
Back on the Greenway
We started out on our bikes from our lovely apartment. The rain in the morning slowed down a bit after we left the tourist office. But it was raw, wet, and gray. That didn’t damper our spirits as we worked our way through the town back to the Greenway. Again, we passed orchards loaded with oranges and olive trees on the other of the trail.
Once back on the trail, it was a slight downhill to Torres Torres. We passed a few viaducts and more orchards. There was one spot where the trees had dropped mandarins in the ditches beside the Greenway. I stopped and collected a few. It was like gleaning along the bike path.
It wasn’t the prettiest part of the trail, but it was a fine ending. Because the day was so short, I was able to ride in some of the higher speeds without exhausting my battery, which made pedaling super easy.
End of the trip
Very soon, we made it to our endpoint. Mediterranean Bike Tours was the company used by Cycling Spain to support our bike trip. While biking on the Ojos Negros Greenway is one of their popular trips, they have many other tours, both bike and walking tours. They have a focus on slow travel and on doing sustainable green tours.
Santi is the company owner and was very sweet. He would WhatsApp us each day with pointers on what we should see on the route. Santi took us out in his orange fields at the end of the biking to sample one of his favorite mandarin varieties. He was insistent that it was the authentic taste of the mandarin of Spain. It was delicious and refreshing.
We returned our bikes and said goodbyes. Santi brought us over to the well-known woodfired paella restaurant in town. We saw them cooking our paella and helped to stoke the fire under the big round pan. They use pine twigs and pinecones to light the fire up quickly, boiling the liquid until the rice absorbs it all. Ours was a delicious chicken and rabbit paella. The chicken and rabbit were so tender. The wood smoke stuck to my clothing so I could smell it all during the meal. It was a lovely reminder of the paella cooking.
Accommodations for Biking the Ojos Negros Greenway
While the cycling company has tried and true accommodations on its excellent Ojos Negros Greenway trip package, we decided to find our lodging along the way. Booking your accommodation is definitely more work, so you can let the company provide them. However, if you are planning independently, these are the accommodations I recommend.
Teruel
Apartamento Alcaraz in Teruel is perfectly situated in the historic part of the charming city of Teruel.
Our host, Angel was waiting on the sidewalk for us and directed us to the apartment. We took our bikes up the handicap ramp into the building. Next, we took them one at a time up the tiny elevator to the second-floor apartment. Bringing the bikes up the elevator into the room was hilarious, but it made it easy to charge them and keep them safe.
The apartment is a lovely, comfortable place to end the day. It is bright and spacious. One bedroom with a double bed has flamingos painted on the walls. There is another curtained-off area with a sofa bed for the third person to sleep. We used the washing machine to wash our sweaty and muddy clothes.
Segorbe
Alojamientos Segobriga Rural was one of my favorite places to stay while biking on the Ojos Negros Greenway. Indeed, what can be better than a charming, spacious apartment located directly over a bakery? Plus, the host Lucia made a delicious cake as a welcoming treat. The property has a garage nearby to store and charge the bikes overnight. The location in the heart of the historic city made it a short walk to restaurants and to visit the cathedrals, towers, and ancient walls. Make sure to visit the tourist information center to learn about the annual running of the bulls in Segorbe.
Albentosa
Hostal Los Maños reminded me of a deluxe Spanish truck stop. It had everything you needed when coming off the Via Verde at the end of the day. The rooms were no frills but clean and comfy. There was an on-site restaurant and bar with surprisingly good food, with meat cooked over a wood fire. The grocery store in the complex had many local products and an excellent selection. It was perfect to get lunch items for the next day’s ride. They gave us a key to the garage to store our bikes overnight.
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Wrap Up of Biking on the Ojos Negros Greenway
Spain has many incredible cycling routes, so choosing one is difficult. I found biking on the Ojos Negros Greenway to be an excellent way to explore the Teruel, Castellón, and Valencia provinces of Spain. The biking was easy and safe. We took our time to investigate local history and culture, eat and drink amazing food and wine, and marvel at diverse natural beauty. Here’s to slow biking!
You can continue past the official Greenway ending to the ocean at Porto de Sagunto or Canet. Next, you can take the unremarkable Vía Verde de la Xurra into Valencia. While the scenery along the greenway isn’t great, the city of Valencia is a cyclist’s mecca. Valencia has scores of dedicated bikeways and a greenbelt on the river where you can cycle to the attractions of this vibrant city. Don’t miss exploring this bike-friendly city!
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Disclaimer: I was a guest of Cycling Spain and their local partner Mediterranean Bike Tours on this trip. I was not compensated or asked to write a positive review. All opinions are from my honest experience.
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