The Life of Pai
People flock to Pai, Thailand for amazing outdoor adventures in the gorgeous natural areas surrounding the town. In this post, I’ll share a few of my favorites.
Pai is a charmingly odd town in Northern Thailand, close to the Myanmar border. Weed shops, massage parlors, bars with live music, fruit shake vendors, motorbike rental shops, tour providers, and street food stands characterize it. This quaint town exudes a laid-back vibe with touches of artistic creativity in the shops and cafes. The bustling night market brings a sense of vibrancy after the sun goes down.
The mountains of northern Thailand surround the town. I visited in April during the burning season where the haze of farmers’ fires in the north shrouds the hills and diminishes the view. The best time to go to Pai is November to February when the weather is cooler. However, even though I was there at precisely the wrong time, I loved the surrounding area’s natural beauty. Outdoor adventures such as hiking, hot spring dipping, caving, and motorbiking on the quiet roads were purely divine.
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Outdoor Adventures in Pai Canyon
Pai Canyon is a magnificent geological attraction located on Highway 1095 highway about 8 kilometers (5 miles) south of town. Hiking there is not for the faint of heart. The narrow trails have no handrails and high exposure so any errant step has big consequences. The trails trace the tops of the narrow ridges with views of the canyon on either side. There are worn channels to squeeze through on the climbs up the sandstone cliffs. The trails meander up and down the canyon without trail markers or signs. However, it’s hard to get lost as you can see the whole topography of the place from the ridges.
Pai Canyon is free to visit and a perfect place to hike for an hour or so. The sunsets are incredible too, so visit in the evening for a colorful show. Most trails are in direct sun, so bring sunscreen, a hat, and water. There are refreshment stands at the entrance to stock up on liquids for the hike. I visited in the middle of a 45°C (113° F) day so I used all my sun protection gear and skills. Little wonder why I had the place to myself!
My hiking shoes impressed me in handling the steep and slippery terrain. I wore a pair of the new Vasque Re: Connect Now shoes. On my trip to Thailand and Vietnam, I would be walking a lot in cities and hiking in the countryside, therefore I needed a lightweight shoe that cruised the city street in fashion but could hold up to hardcore hiking. This hybrid shoe is the perfect civilization-to-wilderness shoe. They are remarkably light and airy; my favorite feature in oppressively hot hiking conditions.
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Hot Springs Outdoor Adventures in Pai
Tha Pai and Saingam Hot Springs are the two most popular soaking spots near Pai. I visited the Tha Pai hot springs as it was near to Pai Canyon. It made for a relaxing immersion after my hike. The spring has divided pools of different temperatures marked so you can choose how hot you want your soak to be. The top pool is the hottest. A lush forest surrounds the pools and trails, creating a shady canopy to relax in the mineral waters.
The springs are also a popular place for people to boil eggs. Therefore, a special pool where the hot water emerges from the ground is designated for the egg boiling.
The irony of these hot springs I visited near Pai is that the air temperature in the city was 45°C (113°F) while the hottest pools were 36°C (97°F). I chuckled that the hot spring temperatures were cooler than the air.
I was out of water when I arrived at the national park, therefore I was surprised there were none of the ubiquitous stands selling drinks that are all over Thailand. Food and drinks are not allowed near the hot spring pools. There is, however, a pavilion with picnic tables to eat lunch. Just make sure you bring your own picnic and liquids. There are also changing rooms and showers. The entrance fee was 300 baht ($8).
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Outdoor Adventures in Lod Cave
Nam Lod is a subterranean cave located about a 1.5-hour drive from Pai. It is a combination of three humongous caves. Each giant cave is packed with flowstone and big curtain formations. The guide points out unique formations resembling a tiger, a Buddha, an alligator, and many more.
You hire a guide to visit the cave when you reach the park. It’s very organized at the entry kiosk. Each guide can take up to 3 visitors to the cave (as the bamboo rafts only seat 3 passengers). It was 600 baht ($16) for the trip so it was worthwhile for me to join up with a Japanese couple so we were only paying 200 ($5.50) baht each. After a scenic walk to the cave entrance, the guide lit her Coleman lantern. It was the only light to guide the group, so I wished I had brought my headlamp to illuminate the cave features.
There were many groups of three people with their guide hiking up and down the stairs of the cave so you could see beams of light everywhere. Some of the stairs are steep and rickety but the guide was very careful with safety. The grandiose splender of the cave was incredible.
Bamboo rafting in the cave
The third cave was full of water, so we went by bamboo raft to the end. A huge opening at the end of the cave let in light from the jungle. You could see swifts and bats from the light of the opening. The swifts had built nests in pockets in the rock ceiling. The guano of bats and birds painted the entire cavern with a stinky varnish. The wooden stairs were steep here and the guano-covered handrails were a little cringe-worthy.
The third section of the cave held several wooden coffins made of teakwood. The people were buried hundreds of years ago; all that is left is the teakwood coffin.
After exploring the cave with the log coffins, we rode the bamboo raft back toward the entrance. As we walked back, our guide paused at a shrine at the cave entrance to offer thanks for a safe trip.
The cave trip takes a half day from Pai. You can book the shuttle van to the cave at any of the local tour companies in Pai. Alternatively, you can drive the 1.5 hours by motorbike.
Outdoor Adventures by Motorbike in Pai
Pai has no shortage of motorbike rental shops in town. That’s because the roads around Pai are perfect for finding outdoor adventure by motorbike. For about 200 baht ($6) per day, you can explore the quiet roads to visit temples, waterfalls, and scenic villages. The rental agency staff will give you a riding lesson if you are a motorcycle novice.
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Temples
Wat Phra That Mae Yen is a temple on the hill near Pai that is easy to ride to on your motorbike. The huge white Buddha statue towers above Pai and can be seen from many vantage points. After climbing a steep set of stairs, you are rewarded with panoramic views of Pai and its surrounding valleys. It is particularly beautiful at sunset.
Wat Nam Hoo, located northeast of Pai, is a temple with a scenic duck pond to relax by. The Buddha here is famous as the head is hollow and contains holy water.
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Sunset Rides
I rode my motorbike to each of the two most popular locations to view the sunset in Pai. The first night I biked along the same road as the Phra That Mae Yen temple to visit the Two Huts attraction. There is a restaurant with live music nested on a ridge overlooking the valley. A huge crowd spreads across benches and outdoor tables to watch the sun sink into the mountainous horizon. It’s free to visit but they ask that you order something. The vibe is lively and party-focused. It’s not the place for a reflective sunset.
The other popular sunset place is Pai Canyon. This place to watch the setting sun is much more nature-focused. Alcohol is prohibited and the vibe is more peaceful. Groups of people seek out the many great vantage points along the canyon trails to watch the sun settle into the mountains. There is usually a crowd but it’s easier than at Two Huts to spread out and enjoy the canyon’s beauty. There are food and drink stalls at the entry parking area.
Chinese Village
Santichon Village is a Chinese Yunnan community located 5 km (3 miles) west of Pai. You can see the traditional clay houses and explore the tea culture of the village. While it’s a bit of a tourist trap, I was there in the off-season so I enjoyed the village’s architecture. I also drove up to the Yun Lai Viewpoint for a panoramic view of the mountains around Pai. The Chinese village is free to enter.
Backroads of Pai
You never know what you will see while motorbiking the backroads of Pai. I stopped for a cold drink at a roadside cafe and watched two gentle elephants stroll along the road on their way to their river waterhole. A local elephant camp offers tours to the mountains and river with the elephants.
Motorbiking through the backroads around Pai will take you past stunning rice fields, rolling hills, and traditional Thai villages. One stop you don’t want to miss is the Ko Ku So Bridge, a long bamboo bridge wandering over rice fields for a tranquil stroll in the countryside. It’s most beautiful in the rice growing season.
Nearby the bamboo bridge is Pam Bok Waterfall. You can swim in the pool at the base of the falls. The drive to both is about 10 km (6 miles) from Pai.
Logistics of Outdoor Adventures in Pai
Pai is accessible by road from Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai. I enjoyed a scenic 3-hour air-conditioned van ride from Chiang Mai. I book all my in-county travel through 12GoAsia, an online transportation website offering tickets for trains, buses, ferries, transfers, minivans, taxis, and flights across Southeast Asia. Be aware that the ride to Chiang Mai is on winding, switchbacking roads. Therefore, Dramamine might be your best traveling friend.
This 2-day overnight tour from Chiang Mai includes Nam Lod Cave, Pai Canyon, temples, and other outdoor adventures around Pai. It’s perfect for those who want to leave the planning and logistics to someone else.
Accommodation
Pai has a range of accommodations from friendly hostels to luxury resorts. I stayed in the relaxing Family House Zen Boutique Resort. Besides the absolute best breakfast I had in Southeast Asia, the moderately priced resort was tranquil and emersed in natural beauty. I loved relaxing by the pool with a beverage while listening to the melodic bird song. This accommodation is a 5-minute walk across a unique bamboo bridge to the center of Pai. I felt safe at night walking to the lively Night Market in the heart of Pai.
Staying in touch with home
I’ve become a fan of E-sim cards for communication on international trips. An E-sim card can be bought online and easily installed on your phone before you travel. When you reach your destination, you simply turn on the E-sim in your settings and have data to use when you are away from Wifi. There is certainly abundant Wifi in Vietnam, but when you are on a river or another outdoor adventure, an E-sim is essential.
I use an Airalo E-sim card for all my international travels. They are significantly less expensive than my phone carrier’s international charges. Plus, it’s easy to top them off when you run low on data.
Wrap Up of Outdoor Adventures of Pai
Northern Thailand is full of outdoor adventures and Pai is the perfect base for exploring. If you are looking for respite from the chaos of Bangkok or Chiang Mai, Pai is a tranquil retreat. The pace of life in Pai is slower, giving a Zen feeling to the natural beauty all around you. Rent a motorbike or take a tour to enjoy the canyons, rolling hills, hot springs, caves, and charming local villages. I was entranced by the scenic wonder and laid back vibe. I hope you will be, too.
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6 Comments
Sharyn · June 26, 2024 at 5:22 pm
What an interesting place this looks like. I’d love to visit the cafes, enjoy the warm waters and see elephants wondering along the streets. Thanks for sharing.
Karen · June 27, 2024 at 12:09 pm
While I write about outdoor adventures of Pai, I certainly enjoyed the sweet little cafes in town.
Marina · June 27, 2024 at 10:06 pm
How cool would it be to see elephants strolling through the street? Thank you for sharing all these tips, a visit to Pai looks like an incredible adventure.
Natalie · June 28, 2024 at 3:20 am
What a beautiful place! Lod Cave sounds right up my alley. Outdoorsy and a little macabre
Liz D · June 28, 2024 at 11:07 am
a bamboo raft in a cave with teakwood coffins is way better than the Small World ride at Disneyland! Enjoyed this post and it made be move Thailand up on the travel bucket list. Thanks for sharing your adventure!
Caroline · June 28, 2024 at 4:31 pm
Oh wow, it’s been almost a decade since I visited Pai. I remember it being such an amazing part of the country and still looks like it is! I didn’t know about the caves or bamboo rafting in them when I was there but looks like an amazing experience. I’d love to go back and visit.